A top food critic has heaped praise on a new restaurant in the county – describing the dishes as “hard to fault” and likening one dish to it “revealing its inner Willy Wonka”. The Guardian’s Grace Dent visited The Counter in Tunbridge Wells, which opened earlier this year, to try their £95-a-head eight-course tasting menu. And it left her purring. It was certainly very different to the last time she reviewed a Kent eatery – which resulted in a scathing write-up of Canterbury’s Sekkoya in which she described her main course as tasting of “precisely nothing”. But it was a different story after h…
