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When friends come to visit him Edmund Lai knows what to expect. “When it’s about Hong Kong, everyone thinks about skyscrapers and people, people, people. But once we’ve embarked in a sea kayak, they never want to go back,” says the 29-year-old. Lai is a kayak guide and loves island tours far from the megacity. Of course, no one comes to Hong Kong just for the islands. Tourists want the panoramic views best seen at Victoria Peak, the city’s own mountain. They come for the daily skyline lightshow titled “Symphony of Lights” and for entertainment, shopping, culture. In brief, they come to feel th…

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