For many — Ukrainians and non-Ukrainians alike — Ukrainian cuisine might seem the antithesis of fine dining: greasy and meaty comfort food, the provenance of moms and grandmothers. The owners of the Ukrainian neo-bistro Mriya, which means “dream” in Ukrainian, located in central London, share anything but this perspective. Opening after the start of Russia’s full-scale invasion, the restaurant is determined to show the world that Ukrainian cuisine can, and should, have a seat at the haute cuisine table. “We didn’t want it to be the same old Ukrainian cuisine from the village or home. We wanted…