Over the years I have found myself becoming more and more sceptical when it comes to the bold claims made by restaurants promising to reinvent, reinterpret, or otherwise produce some kind of twist on a classic. Classics are classics for a reason, mess with them at your peril. Similarly, alarm bells start to sound whenever a menu promises a ‘luxury’ version of a relatively humble dish – be that the hamburger, the pizza or, in this case, the hot dog. The cynic in me instantly assumes the ‘luxury’ implied here will be the luxury of the proprietor leaving my wallet significantly lighter than it wa…