Describing itself as a House of Paradise, with five lovely hostesses waiting to greet me on the first floor, I quickly tried the door of the St Lawrence, but disappointingly the pub was shut up tight. Failing to get even a drink, I wandered further along Ashburnham Road found myself at the Australian Arms instead. Hidden away as it is I never would have discovered this antipodean delight if the sports bar on the high street had been open on a Friday lunchtime. The landlady, who was busy cleaning the fridges, immediately put down her cloth to welcome us and I faced a two-tap choice of Gadds No5…