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It’s 7:52 in the morning, but Austin Hebert has been sitting in a camping chair by the door of a rickety wooden shack for a while already, hoping to grab the best lunch of his life. The sun hasn’t long been out, bathing the tops of the trees on the country road and the slightly rusted white sign with the large black letters “BAR-B∙Q” in a warm Texan morning glow. Here, south of the city of Fort Worth, the most improbable rise in the world of Texas Barbecue when the influential magazine Texas Monthly published its list of the state’s best BBQ joints. First place went to Goldee’s, founded just a…

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